From an Esthetician: The Truth About Vitamin C

As an esthetician with nearly a decade of experience, I’ve worked with countless women of all ages who come to me feeling overwhelmed by all the skincare trends online. And one of the biggest questions I get asked is:

“Should I be using Vitamin C?”

The internet would have you believe it’s a miracle ingredient. And while it does have its benefits, I’m here to tell you—Vitamin C is not the holy grail it’s hyped up to be. In fact, depending on your skin type, it might be doing more harm than good.

What Vitamin C Can Do (When Used Correctly)

Let me start by saying this: Vitamin C does have a place in skincare. I’ve seen it brighten dull skin, fade dark spots, and offer some antioxidant protection when used properly. It can even support collagen production over time. But here’s the thing…

Most of what’s being shared online doesn’t take real skin, real clients, or real-world experience into account. And that’s where things get frustrating.

The Reality: Vitamin C Isn’t for Everyone

In my practice, I’ve seen it time and time again: a client with acne-prone or reactive skin starts using a Vitamin C serum they found online, and suddenly their skin is more inflamed, irritated, and unhappy than before.

That’s because Vitamin C—especially when not formulated properly—can increase inflammation, especially in sensitive or acne-prone skin.

Here’s what I tell my clients:

“Vitamin C is great... if your skin is already in a good place.”

That means:

- You’re not currently dealing with breakouts or active inflammation

- Your skin barrier is healthy and stable

- You can tolerate active ingredients well

- You’re using a bioavailable and stable form of Vitamin C (which, let’s be honest, often comes with a higher price tag)

If that’s not your skin right now, it’s okay. You don’t need Vitamin C to have healthy, glowing skin. And forcing it can actually set you back.

When I DoRecommend Vitamin C

There are times when Vitamin C is a great addition to a skincare routine. I recommend it for clients who:

- Are smokers or have visible environmental damage

- Are looking to brighten an already clear, even-toned complexion

- Want to support collagen production as part of an age management strategy

- Have a healthy skin barrier and aren’t dealing with sensitivity

When those boxes are checked, Vitamin C can be a helpful tool. But it’s just that—a tool, not a one-size-fits-all solution.

Final Thoughts from the Treatment Room

After 9 years working hands-on with real skin, here’s what I know for sure:

Skincare isn’t about trends. It’s about listening to your skin and giving it what it needs—when it needs it.

Vitamin C is one of those ingredients that’s become more hype than help for a lot of people. And if you’ve tried it and felt like your skin got worse instead of better, you’re not crazy. That’s a very common reaction I see in the treatment room.

So, feeling the pressure to add another "must-have" product to your routine—pause. Let's focus on your skin first. Not the algorithm.